The new collection launched last year in Geneva is entering a new era, that of the diamond. Eight pieces are now available, in white gold, titanium and King Gold, with four setting levels.
After revealing the powerful contours of the Square Big Bang Unico at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022, Hublot is unveiling eight new exclusive variations. The watchmaker has focused its attention on two models in particular, the first in titanium, the second in King Gold, an 18-carat gold alloy with copper and platinum to give it a redder hue than the 5N gold. Each model is available in four different setting levels for eight different references.
In the first level, the bezel is set with 44 white diamonds totalling 1.9 carats. Afterwards, the second level is a more jewelled version where the case is also paved with 138 white diamonds totalling 3.3 carats.
The third level moves very clearly towards a piece of jewellery. This composition is therefore called ‘Jewellery.’ The setting is richer and technically more complex. The bezel is draped in 50 baguette diamonds. The case, set with 94 diamonds, brings the number of diamonds to 144 with well over 4 carats (4.4 carats precisely).
The fourth level reaches new heights. Here is a piece of ‘high jewellery’ which signals a very clear change of dimension from the previous versions. In all, 285 diamonds adorn the case, with both the bezel and dial entirely
set in diamonds, achieving a total of almost 18 carats. Each piece (in white gold or King Gold) has an invisible setting, a jewellery technique where the claws holding the stones appear to disappear, creating the feeling that they are simply and delicately placed flush with the gold or titanium. All the diamonds have been selected for their large size to emphasise the case’s profile. In this exercise of pure geometry, each diamond has a rectangular and trapezoidal profile that perfectly matches the square profile of the Square Bang. In particular, the extreme care taken with the hour-markers, the case flange and the time counters, highlighted by 79 baguette diamonds are on show. The same care has been taken with the iconic protective lugs of the Big Bang case, as well as to the dedicated push-piece on the interchangeable bracelet and its folding clasp (which has 30 baguette diamonds).
Each of these versions confirms the unique and different character of the Square Bang Unico, the first square watch designed by Hublot – which, after the round and the barrel shape, was the only geometric shape the watchmaker had yet to work with. The square introduces a new geometric shape. But, at the same time, collectors will find themselves on familiar ground, with the Big Bang’s hallmark features visible here and there: six screws on the bezel, composite side pieces and bezel, the interchangeable rubber strap, while Big Bang’s time markers and hands hover over the watchmaker’s own Unico bicompax chronograph.
The titanium version retains the monochrome feel, where the brilliant white of the diamonds is reflected in the brushed grey of the titanium. The style is modern and understated, through both the powerful design of the case with cut-off sides and the delicacy of the diamonds that are set on it.
The King Gold version reveals very different aesthetics. It has a richer colour palette. The gold case contrasts sharply with the black rubber strap – a clash between two worlds which marked the brand’s foundation over forty years ago. The dazzling whiteness of the diamond stands out from this composition with its enhanced presence. The jewelled style triumphs, while the setting is the star. The Square Bang Unico is still powerful and edgy, but is complemented by an unprecedented glamour, a suit of light. Some may see it as a way of softening its presence on the wrist. Others, on the contrary, will see more assertive lines thanks to the rows of diamonds which highlight the contours. In the end, everyone will give it their own personality.